Syrian Hamster Care Sheet:
Syrians are the biggest hamster commonly kept as pets. They are bred in a range of colours and their size makes them easier to handle than the dwarf species. They also tend to be less nippy than dwarf hamsters as well as being less skittish like some of the dwarves tend to be, robobrovskis especially.
Housing and exercise unlike the dwarf species Syrians are strictly one per cage. They are very territorial and will fight to the death with any other hamster they perceive as a threat. Even young hamsters that seem to live together well will fight after the age of 6 to 8 weeks although this varies. So although it will seem tempting when they are all snuggled up together remember the syrian wont get lonely on its own so don't be tempted to buy another for this purpose
Syrians due to their size and energy need a large cage. They can run about 8 miles a night on a wheel so its important that they can stretch their legs. They can also go in the clear (the coloured ones make it harder for them to see through) hamster balls sold for them to run around in but they should be limited to half an hour at a time so they can get food and water. Also bare in mind on a warm day it will be very hot inside. Also if the hamster looks distressed it should be returned to its cage. If you have a safe place they can free range but make sure that they cannot disappear down any holes. If a hamster does go missing they can be retrieved by putting food into a bucket and making a stack of books into stairs for the hamster to climb. Once it falls into the bucket it wont be able to climb out because of the smooth sides.
Food and water water should be provided for the hamster at all times. The best way to do this is with a water bottle. This keeps the water clean and accessible to the hamster. The average syrian will drink around 5-10 ml per day. Food is also important, with many different types being on the market. A good food should be picked and the nutritional analysis studied. The protein level should be around 16% with the oil (fat) being at 5-7% hamsters hoard their food so when feeding be mindful they are probably hiding some. Its also important that they eat all their food for a balanced diet. Treats can also be given with each hamster having its own tastes, onions and garlic should be avoided though. Yoghurt and milk drops are popular as well as small pieces of cooked chicken or turkey, small pieces of fruit and vegetables. Feed in moderation as drastic changes in food can lead to stomach upsets.
Sexing sexing a syrian hamster is easily done. The male is more tapered towards the rear and will have visible testicles. The genitals are also further apart from the anus on a male where a female hamsters will be next to each other the females are also more rounded on their rump and some have visible nipples through the fur
Breeding As Syrian hamsters are an antisocial species breeding them isn't too straightforward. To breed them they must be introduced when the female is in season otherwise the pair will fight. The female will come into season every four nights and this is when the breeding should be attempted. She should be at least 3 months old although 4 months is better and she shouldn't be bred past 7 months old.
On the evening that the female is in season she should be either put into the males cages or both her and the male put into a neutral territory, the male should never be put into the females cage. This should be done in the early evening as being nocturnal this is when they are more likely to breed.
The female will give signs she is in season, the most obvious being her “freezing” if her back is stroked. Not all females will do this however. Other signs are the female calling or being more active and trying to escape. If your trying to work out the females cycles she can be put to the male anytime, but they must be observed as she will fight with the male if she isn't in season. Signs to watch out for are the female trying to tip the male up by putting her nose under his stomach. She should be removed and tried again each night until she comes into season. This should be within a 4 night period. Once the female shows she is in season by freezing for the male with her tail held up to allow him to mate. The male will mate the female several times pausing in between to clean himself. After about half an hour the male should be removed if the female is tiring of his advances as she may turn on him. She should be returned to her own cage.
The female hamster should be handled carefully for the next few days and to confirm the pregnancy she can be put back to the male on the fourth night after that first mating. If she is pregnant she will reject the male but if not this means that she can be mated again.
The gestation for Syrian hamsters is 16 days, the shortest gestation known in mammals. Around day 10 she will start to show her pregnancy with her stomach becoming rounder and the lighter coloured types of hamsters will show a reddening of the nipples. She will give birth to several hairless and blind babies anytime between the 15th and 17th day.
Illnesses Syrian hamsters are fairly hardy creatures but can suffer from certain ailments. The worst of these is a disease called wet tail. It is a forum of gastroenteritis which is frequently fatal. It kills by making the hamster dehydrated and also ulcerating the bowel which damages it and means that it cannot absorb food and water into its body. It is caused by an infected hamster or a stressed hamster can contract it and the disease has caused devastation among many hamsteries. It can be treated with fluids and antibiotics such as baytril but is rarely successful especially if it isn't caught early.
Grooming A short haired syrian wont need any help with grooming though it can groomed with a toothbrush or other small animal brush if desired. A long haired syrian will need help to keep its coat in good condition so again a toothbrush or small animal brush/comb can be used to keep the long fur tangle free.
Written By Ami_J (rfuk)
